The Short List


Daily:
Rolex Datejust

Manufacturer: Rolex
Model: 16234
Name: Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Caliber: Rolex Caliber 3135 movement (31 Jewels)
Water Resistance: 100 M

Notes:
  • 36mm stainless steel case
  • 18K white gold fluted bezel
  • satin silver dial
  • silver raised bar markers
  • jubilee bracelet
  • automatic, COSC Chronometer
  • Twinlock crown
  • sweep seconds
  • quickset date at 3
  • flat sapphire crystal
  • 904L Stainless steel - Rolex is the only manufacturer to use this kind of steel (3 times more expensive and harder to machine, slightly more corrosion resistant than industry standard 316L) [Note: I haven't confirmed that this watch uses 904L]
  • Despite the higher nickel content, 904L steel is not more problematic to people with nickel allergies. Allergic reactions stem from non-alloyed nickel. If the steel is of uniform high quality, this will not be a problem.
  • This model has been manufactured, nearly unchanged, since 1945, making it the longest running serially produced watch.

Historic:
Jaeger LeCoultre Mark XI

Manufacturer: Jaeger LeCoultre
Model: 6B/346, G6B/346, JLC E161
Name: 6B Pilot's Watch
Caliber: JLC 488/SBr
Water Resistance: 10 M
Notes:
  • 35mm case, lug-to-lug 43.5mm, height 12.8mm, 17mm lugs
  • 16 jewel hack set caliber 488 SBr, 18000 vph
  • Orange radium dial/hands
  • “6B” means “Flying Equipment”, “6B/346” is the watch specification number, noone know what the “G” means
  • “E161” is JLC's internal reference number
  • “B/97” sometimes appears on the caseback of the RAF model. Noone knows what it means.
  • Antimagnetic dust cover made of soft iron encloses the movement, protecting it from magnetic fiels.
  • screw back case
  • oversize crown, sometimes appearing with the JL logo
  • luminous markers at 3, 6, 9, 12
  • Only 2700 ever made, issued in two batches. An RAF batch in 1948, and an RAAF batch in 1953 (aprox 2000 RAF, 700 RAAF)
  • On the back, the XXXX/48 or YYY/53 indicate the serial number/year
  • My Jaeger LeCoultre Mark XI website - Extended information & a photo essay
  • List of references for this information.

Sports Chrono:
IWC 3705 Ceramic Fliegerchrono

Manufacturer: International Watch Company
Model: 3705
Name: Mechanical Flieger Chronograph
Caliber: Caliber 7912 (Base caliber Valjoux 7750)
Water Resistance: 60 M
Notes:
  • Automatic winding, hacking movement
  • Movement is 30mm, height of 8.9mm, 25 jewels, 28800 vph
  • 39 mm case, height 14.6mm
  • inner case made of antimagnetic soft iron
  • Screw-in crown
  • Convex sapphire glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure
  • Approximately 900-1200 of these manufactured in mid-90s
  • This is the ceramic version of the 3706 stainless steel flieger still in production today
  • Ceramic case made of zirconium oxide (extremely durable, hardness greater than steel) - said to be “..impervious to cuts, dents and scratches”.
  • According to the IWC catalog (1993?) this high-tech ceramic allowed for Stealth technology to be possible
  • Caseback, crown and pushers in stainless steel.
  • Introduced in 1993, production halted in 1997
  • Rumoured that production stopped because the expenses of manufacturing the case put IWC's retail margins out of line with cost. Another possibility is that it didn't sell well, because many people thought the black case made it look cheap, like a Casio. If this is the case, I think that the market has changed significantly since then, with many manufacturers (De Grisigono, Fortis, Kobold, Montblanc) using PVD to make their watches black. Unlike the ceramic case, this only serves to make the watch black, without increasing the durability of watch.
    Also, people are accepting that quality watches can be made from non-exotic metals. Audemars Piguet, Blancpain and Bvlgari have watches with cases partially made from rubber components. Of course, Zirconium Oxide is probably a little more exotic than even Gold!
    Some of the most collectible watches today were unpopular in their own time. I think that this may be one of them.
  • With the sapphire crystal, zirconium oxide case, and the rugged Valjoux 7750 movement, I think this is makes the ultimate sports watch. No need to worry about impact or scratches. You could consider the the “ultimate beater”.
  • The only thing I wish I could change is adding an anti-reflective coating to the crystal. In some lighting situations, the watch can be hard to read because of that.
  • List of references for this information.

Dress Watch:
Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-thin

Manufacturer: Jaeger Lecoultre
Model: 145 85 20 (M)
Name: Master Ultra Thin
Caliber: Caliber 849 (Base caliber JLC 839)
Water Resistance: 50 M
Retail: 4200 (with deployant), 4100 (without).
Notes:
  • 33.3mm Stainless Steel case, 4.2mm thick
  • 19 jewel, 1.85 mm thick movement, 21600 vph
  • Manual winding
  • slightly curved sapphire crystal (cambered)
  • saphire display back only available on version with black dial? Not all versions have a display back. There seems to be some debate over this. Some say that a display back is available for all versions since SIHH 2002.
  • crocodile strap, tang buckle
  • Also available with a black dial
  • JLC also makes a shorter strap and a small deployant for smaller wrists
  • Very much thicker in the middle of the watch. This means that the watch kind of “floats” above the wrist, and it can catch on a shirt cuff.

Independent Art:
Vianney Halter Antiqua

Manufacturer: Vianney Halter
Name: Antiqua Perpetual Calendar
Caliber: VH 198 (43 jewels)
Water Resistance: 30 M
Retail: CHF 90,000 (platinum) CHF 60,000 (gold)
Notes:
  • Case/dial/rivets available in any combination of platinum and (yellow, red, white) gold
  • Strap available in alligator or goat skin
  • Blued steel hands
  • Case alone is 123 pieces (crown alone is 23 pieces, 76 rivets over the watch case)
  • The case is sub-contracted
  • Movement is Lemania 8810 base with double barrels and 40 hour power reserve
  • Movement is 32mm, 4.7mm thick, 28800vph
  • Launched in 1998, as part of the original Vianney Halter collection
  • The contemporaine is a smaller version, available with a perpetual calendar or moon-phase, and does not have the signature rivets
  • Perpetual calendar comes with a wooden winding box, moon-phase comes with a leather box
  • Display back
  • Sapphire crystals with AR coating on both sides
  • In 1999, Vianney Halter production was 20 watches per year
  • Vianney Halter patented “mystery rotor”
  • A nicer picture that I photoshopped together. Contact me if you want the 3MB version (2 times the resolution)

Stuff that hasn't made the list (yet)
  • IWC Portuguese Chrono-Automatic
  • Brior Cavelletto (skeletonized)
  • Lange 1
  • Lange 1815
  • Suunto Observer
  • Budapest Watch Co. Guardian I
  • Philippe DuFour Simplicity
  • Philippe DuFour Duality
  • Longines Dolce Vita Round
  • Vulcain Cricket
  • Cartier Pasha 950
  • Nomos Tangent Wempe Ltd. Edition (Display back)
  • Tutima FX UTC
  • F.P. Journe Resonance
  • Kai Tai Yu 2002 Year of the Horse Commemorative
  • Kai Tai Yu No. 16 Double Golden Dragon Mystery Tourbillon
  • Accutron Spaceview
  • Audemars Piguet Equation of Time Pocket Watch
  • Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Hand Wind Cal 3090
  • Patek Philippe 5102 Celestial
  • Breguet Type “XX”, 2nd generation
    Timepieces Home | Almost Picks | Winders | References | JLC Mark XI Website - Francis 2003